Killing time with Berber whiskey

If there’s one flavour that spring’s to mind when I think of Morocco, one taste that comes to the fore, then for me it’s got to be tea. Thé a la menthe. Berber whiskey. Whiskey Marocain. Call it what you will, but one sip of a scalding glass of sweet mint tea immediately transports me back to Morocco. It’s a nostalgia drink.

Moroccans drink this several times during the day, taking their leisurely time over a silver pot filled with steaming dark liquid. They drink it from small glasses that are repeatedly filled, the tea poured in from a height of 10 or 12 inches. It takes a bit practice to get this right, so watch out for burns when you’re learning.

Tea is about taking a pause. It’s about finding a little space in the day to contemplate life. It’s about hospitality, greeting your visitor with a nourishing hit of sugar and caffeine. You’ll find it’s often served while you’re haggling in a shop, so maybe it’s also a distraction tactic! Even in the desert, drinking tea is a must. Despite the heat, it’s surprisingly refreshing and provide a much-needed lift to tired bodies.

The key to making good mint tea is to not be shy with the sugar. Forget about those teeth occasionally, forget about weight issues. A few glasses of good, potent tea are unforgettable, each glass fragrant from the mint and loaded to the brim with sugar.

The photo above was taken in the Elite Café in Marrakesh. It’s in the ville nouvelle, the modern part of Marrakesh.

This is a world removed from the souks and Djemaa el Fna, and at times you could almost think you were in Europe. Western brand names abound here.

On the terrace in the Elite we sat, sipped Berber whiskey and watched the world go by.

Here’s how to make it.

Moroccan mint tea

One tablespoon of green tea leaves. Chinese Gunpowder is best.

One large – that’s LARGE – bunch of fresh spearmint leaves.

Half a litre of boiling water.

Four tablespoons of sugar (adjust to taste).

Put the tea into a pot and add the boiling water. Let it steep for 15 minutes, then strain into another pot to get rid of the leaves. Place the second pot onto a hot stove and bring to the boil again.

After a few minutes, add the sugar and stuff the mint into the pot. Pour tea into a glass, then empty the glass back into the pot. Do this several times to ensure the sugar is properly dissolved and mixed before you serve the tea.