Marrakesh by day

We got lost in the souks of Marrakesh last week. I’ve travelled a lot to Morocco, but I’d never been this far south before. The maze of covered alleys and hidden courtyards was teeming with life at street level, the best there is. It was everything we’d hoped for, and more.

You could hire a guide, of course. For a price in Marrakesh, you can get pretty much anything you want. But the best way to discover this tangle of commerce and trade is to dip in, unaccompanied, and see what happens.

In tight passages sliced by shards of sunlight you’ll find spices, ceramics and leatherwork, cloth and babouches, a never ending array of trinkets, perfumes and jewellery, knives, drums and fake designer clothes. You’ll also find Berber women who specialise in fine henna tattoos and terraced cafes with secret rooftop patios overlooking the mishmash of uneven rooftops and corrugated iron sunscreens.

In the warren below, Moroccans go about their day, mingling easily with tourists traipsing round, camera in hand, sneaking the odd photo here and there.

Everything has a price, but every price is negotiable. “Precio democrático,” they’ll say, on hearing us speak Spanish. Democratic price. In real terms, aim for a third of the initial asking sum but don’t be surprised if you find yourself haggling over 50 cents. Above all, if you really want to buy something, be prepared to walk away empty handed. It’s the nuclear option in haggling terms, and it rarely fails. One chap chased us down an alley, leather bag in hand, to seal the deal at the price we wanted. It’s fun, trust me.

And if you head deeper still into the medina, you’ll find places you’d rather you hadn’t come across. Like the tanneries, where animal skins are cured in vats of cow urine and pigeon faeces, a revolting mix accompanied by an equally foul smell. I wish I could post a ‘scratch ‘n’ sniff’ blog to give you a taste of what I mean.

The beauty of Marrakesh is that if you get tired of the souks, you can head out into the outskirts where you’ll find beautiful places to visit like the Menara Gardens. Surrounded by olive groves you’ll find a 12th Century summer house on the edge of an artificial lake where it is said a sultan once drowned his troublesome lovers.

History aside, the heat, 47 degrees Celsius in the shade, prompts a swift return to the relative cool of the souks, or to the hotel pool.

Next, Marrakesh by night and the wonders of the Djema el Fna.